Omega Speedmaster professional with ‘Asymmetric T’ dial and DON bezel reference 105.012-63 from 1964

 14.750

The Omega Speedmaster reference 105.012-63, produced in 1964, stands as a landmark in the history of horology. This model is not only revered for its rarity—limited to around 1,000 pieces—but also for its significance as the first Speedmaster to bear the “Professional” designation on the dial. With its introduction of the now-iconic asymmetric case and the earliest examples of the “DON” bezel, this reference represents a pivotal moment in the Speedmaster lineage, blending innovation with the timeless appeal that has made the Speedmaster a legend.

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Description

The dial of this Omega Speedmaster is a rare and highly sought-after variation, known as the “Asymmetric T.” This nickname derives from the unusual typography of the ‘T’ marking at 6 o’clock, which is slightly off-center and unique to this early production batch. The dial also proudly introduces the “Professional” marking, a designation that would go on to define the Speedmaster’s association with NASA and space exploration. The “Asymmetric T” dial is not only a collector’s dream but also a key identifier of this ultra-rare variant, adding both historical significance and aesthetic uniqueness.

The Case

The 105.012-63 is also notable for introducing the asymmetric case, a design evolution that provided greater protection for the crown and pushers, a critical feature for a watch that would soon be tested in the harshest environments of space. The case, made from stainless steel, measures 42mm in diameter and remains strong and well-preserved in this example. This rugged yet elegant design set the standard for all subsequent Speedmaster models, cementing its status as a tool watch capable of withstanding extreme conditions.

Originality

This particular example of the 105.012-63 maintains a remarkable level of originality, with its original crown, ‘mushroom’ pushers, and hands all intact. The ‘mushroom’ pushers, in particular, are a distinctive feature of this reference, contributing to its unique profile and tactile feel. The hands, with their original tritium lume, have aged to a pleasing patina, adding to the vintage character of the watch. This level of preservation is rare for a Speedmaster of this era, making it a standout piece for collectors.

The DON Bezel

One of the most coveted features of this reference is its “DON” bezel, named after the “Dot Over Ninety” on the tachymeter scale. This bezel insert is highly prized among collectors due to its rarity and the historical period it represents. The DON bezel on this Speedmaster is in excellent condition, with the correct font and spacing that distinguish it from later replacements. It is a critical element that underscores the watch’s authenticity and adds significant value.

The movement

Inside the 105.012-63 beats the Omega Caliber 321, a movement that is legendary in its own right. This manual-winding chronograph movement was chosen by NASA for its reliability and precision, and it powered the Speedmasters worn during the Apollo missions, including the one that accompanied Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to the moon. The Caliber 321’s column-wheel design and robust construction have made it a favorite among watchmakers and collectors alike. In this 1964 Speedmaster, the Caliber 321 remains in excellent working condition, a testament to Omega’s unparalleled craftsmanship.

Adding to the rarity and desirability of this piece is its accompanying Omega steel bracelet, reference 1116 with 575 endlinks, which matches the watch perfectly and enhances its vintage appeal. The bracelet is not only correct for the period but also in excellent condition, offering both comfort and a classic look. The inclusion of the original box further adds to the watch’s provenance, making this an extraordinary find for any serious collector.

For the collector

The Omega Speedmaster Professional 105.012-63 from 1964 is more than just a watch—it is a significant piece of Omega’s history and a cornerstone of the Speedmaster collection. With its ultra-rare “Asymmetric T” dial, first-of-its-kind asymmetric case, original DON bezel, and the legendary Caliber 321 movement, this reference is a must-have for collectors who seek the finest examples of horological history. Its completeness, including the original bracelet and box, only enhances its value, making this Speedmaster a true treasure from the golden age of space exploration and watchmaking.

What we love:

  • Rare ‘Asymmetric T’ dial
  • First Speedmaster with ‘Professional’ on the dial
  • Dot over 90 bezel
  • Comes with box

What you should know:

  • Unless otherwise stated, it is common for vintage watches to not come with box and papers. In the rare example that a watch does come with box and papers it will be mentioned in the description. All purchases come with a bespoke black wooden watch box and warranty card.

Additional information

Brand

Omega

Caliber

321

Case Diameter

42mm

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Dial Color

Black

Movement Type

Manual

Time Period

1960-1969

Dial

Factory Original